So… you want to come to Alaska to dredge. Or to pan, or to metal detect.  Alaska… I can .remember how I dreamed about it for years.  The adventure… the lure of gold-rich streams… the beauty… the wildness of it all.  How better to get the feel of the prospectors of long ago, and maybe to find that one big nugget.  That one special piece to treasure forever. 

 In fact, I knew someone who did exactly that.  During the several years that I spent winters in Quartzsite, Arizona where we sold gold that we had found during the summers, I met a man named Otis Rood.  Otis and his wife were in their seventies, and were snowbirds who spent their winters in Quartzsite.  A number of prospectors used to “stop by” our booth after nugget hunting in the desert all day, to talk to others and show off whatever they had found.  This was at a unique time.  It was 1984-1987, and Quartzsite was in its heyday.  There were more than a million people who came to the swap meet shows in the winter, and the metal detecting companies first came out with nugget hunting detectors during that time.  Detectors that could actually detect nuggets easily.  What a thrill they had… there were absolute novices, people who had never used a detector, walking in off the desert with nuggets up to five ounces in size, that I saw, personally!  It was an exciting time.  

              
Photo left: Alaskan prospectors taking a break...

  Otis, however, had some problems.  Otis’ arms ended at the elbow.  He had prostheses that he used, and used well, as he insisted on living as normal a life as possible.  Otis began hanging around, and he bought a gold detector, and by working VERY hard, he became proficient with it.  Not easy to swing a detector all day without an arm…  Otis found nuggets, but that big one that he wanted so badly eluded him. 

Well, one fall Otis arrived in Quartzsite beaming from ear to ear.  His face literally lit up the booth.  He was so excited he could barely talk!  It seems that they had gone to a place in Alaska on an arranged vacation, and Otis had found a five-ounce nugget!  He carried it with him in his shirt pocket, securely closed by his wife with a large safety pin so he could not accidentally lose it.  When he saw someone he had not told about it, he would tell them the story, ask them to open his pocket, and take it out to show them.  Afterward he would ask them to return it safely to his pocket and pin it securely again.  I don’t know how many times he got poked with that pin, but it didn’t really bother him… he was walking on clouds.  Well, Otis made the cover of one of the treasure magazines, and there were stories written up in a number of them.  He never returned to the Alaskan vacation place.  They had some problems, and I don’t know if they survived them.  While they were in operation I did not hear of anyone else making any finds to compare with Otis’.  Otis was still detecting in winter when I left Quartzsite, and for a number of years afterward, still beaming from that wonderful find he had made in Alaska.  

I’m sure there are many of you who have heard of magnificent finds in Alaska, and there have been many.  I wanted to come to Alaska to dredge, for many years.  When I finally came here, it wasn’t because of the dredging, and although I have not done a whole lot of prospecting since I arrived, I do stay in contact with a lot of people who are prospectors, so I have made some observations and notes that will help anyone who IS planning to make that dream a reality.

  Remember how places where gold is found are sometimes different?  If your prospecting has been confined to the mother lode area of California, you won’t find much difference.  However, if you go a bit further, to the Klamath River in far northern California, you’re presented with a situation where you have to change techniques.  In the mother lode, streams are confined to steep drops in rugged mountains, and the gold is mostly found on or near bedrock, which is pretty shallow.  On the Klamath, a much larger river, the gravels can be up to 30 feet deep, and the gold that is mostly found is found within a “pay layer” deposited by a flood.  Most of the gold found is of a small flake or small nugget variety, with larger pieces being rare.

  Well, Alaska is another whole ball game.  And not only that, Alaska is soooooo large that there are several different ballgames WITHIN the state!

  First, you have to really realize how HUGE the state is. I guess because when you are in the “lower 48” about the only time you see the state of Alaska it is separated on a weather map, and sitting down in the ocean somewhere off the west coast, and is not done to scale so you really have no idea of the size.  Alaska is two and a half times the size of Texas… Now that is big!  And the topography changes a great deal within the state, so there are a number of very distinct and different areas.

  Second, another thing different about Alaska is that “there are no roads.”  That is local terminology, but it is very true that there are few roads in the state, and many mining areas are either completely cut off from road access, or the distances are so great that they are difficult to get to.  So, access to a mining area is sometimes difficult, and it is not always possible to go from one area to another. What you want to do, and where, needs to be worked out ahead of time, or you may get up here planning to do everything in your pickup and camper and need a plane to get where you want to go, and spoil your whole trip.

  Third, just in case you are planning to camp out in a tent… if you are picturing the forests of the western states, where you drive in, find back roads near campgrounds and facilities like stores, gas stations, etc., and can throw up a tent and dredge right outside your door, you need to think again. That is not the reality of Alaska.  At least not anywhere near my area, and anywhere north of here. The reality is this:

  Much of Alaska has already been made inaccessible to most of us.  There are no roads or trails, and you can’t make them.  There are huge wilderness areas, large blocks of land which belong to native corporations, and large blocks of land that are government controlled to the point where access for recreational prospecting is not possible.  You need to make sure that you can even do whatever it is you plan to do.

  Now, if you find out you CAN do whatever, and wherever, then you need to realize that this is like no forest in the lower 48.  It even has a different name… it is a Boreal Forest, because of the location, but what you are concerned with is the fact that I have been on all of the major roads leading north from here, and it is hard to imagine the miles and miles of unbroken forest, leading to the horizon in every direction that goes on forever.  You get out of your vehicle and you are faced with an impenetrable wall of forest at the road’s edge.  You can’t insert more than a hand in many places, let alone put your body into it and walk.  It requires a machete to hack a trail every step of the way.  Let me tell you… the men who first explored this land were tough!  And if you could hack your way into it, or head up or down a river and get somewhere you wanted to be, where would you be?  How long would you be able to stay there?  Could you survive?  If you were alone, and were in a tent, that is very debatable.  This is not like any area you have been in the lower 48 states.  It is not your world out there, it is a true wilderness where animals are at home and you are the interloper… you are at the disadvantage.  You do not know the game or the rules.  The game?  It is survival, and there are NO rules.  If you step into a bear’s territory, and he wants to, he will eat you.  If you face a moose and he is having a bad day, he will stomp you.  If you miscalculate and don’t have enough food, or a bear chomps your gas cans or boat, or any number of other things that can happen… and you can’t get out, you will die.  The sad fact is that people disappear in Alaska every year, and no one ever finds them, no one ever knows what happened to them.  It is a very large place and wherever you are is a very small spot, and most often unknown by anyone else.

  The first rule of Alaska is that you never go into the bush alone. Even seasoned sourdoughs (those who are knowledgeable), do not go alone without leaving word of exactly where, and how long, with someone with the means to get them out.  You will be dependent on machinery, and it can break down, ALWAYS.  And even if not alone, you ALWAYS leave word, and keep in contact with them.  If you stay in a tent, you have to know what you are doing.  There are a LOT of bears up here, and they are all hungry.  How many? No one has any idea.  It is a huge wilderness… a true wilderness.  Bears are territorial, and if you plunk yourself down in a bear’s territory, well… or if he gets hungry and starts roaming and there you are, well…

  So I am going to talk a bit about the area where I live, in the Fairbanks area, and then tell you what I have learned about the other areas, in talking with other prospectors here.  Jim and I put up an “Alaska Gold Forum” on our website, and for the first time, prospectors from around the state are having some contact with one another.

  The general topography of the Fairbanks, Livengood, and nearby mining districts is of river valleys, and low rolling hills.  In the immediate areas around Fairbanks where gold has been found, there are a number of very large mining companies, and there are smaller ones, down to one-man operations. These are commercial operations.  There are no recreational dredging areas within the city or the immediate area.  There are miles of tailings from large dredging operations, which were successful, and the commercial operations are successful because they can access the gold, which is deep.  Mostly 30 to 60 feet deep, and more.  There are several commercial panning operations in and around Fairbanks where you are given a pan of material that they have removed from deep inside a mine, and pan for a fee.

  Because there are no large mountains, steep drops to the creeks, etc., they do not look like the creeks in the mother lode area of California.  These creeks and rivers are meandering slowly, and twist and turn constantly as they slowly make their way to larger rivers.  There are not large concentrations of big boulders, as there is no fast water to move them.

  The first dredging water to the north of here is in the Chatanika River, and in the area of the campground that is accessible to the road, it does not look very promising.  I have not actually done any panning there, but no bedrock is in evidence, nor large boulders.  There’s a lot of gravel.  There are other areas further up this river where access could be possible, mostly created by hunters during moose hunting season.  The river runs fairly near the road.  We are going to check that out, and locate a gravel pit that a prospector told us about.  Finding the right one is the problem… there are a lot of them, used to construct the roads.  And many of them are filled with at least some water during part of the year. 

  Waders are another necessity here for exploring.  Much of the ground is muskeg… it is not solid.  It is tufts of grass sitting on pretty much “mush,” or ground that has permafrost that melts at the surface in summer, so it sinks when it is walked on.  I have not been in it… yet.  We have confined our walking to dry areas.

  For a newcomer, a book written by Ron Wendt, called “Where to Look for Gold in Alaska Without Getting Shot” would be a necessity.  Ron comes from a family of prospectors, and was born in the Fairbanks area.  He has researched gold prospecting perhaps more thoroughly than anyone in the state, and is a wealth of information, having worked most every mining district from the fortymile down to the Anchorage area.  Ron gives you page after page of places that are highway accessible, for a number of areas in the state, and rates them as to what you can expect to find, what equipment can be used there, etc.

  Further north there are a number of large mining districts.  Near the top of Eagle Summit are Harrison and Mastodon Creeks (now when I was dreaming of Alaska, I sort of featured Mastodon Creek as about 5 miles outside Fairbanks… but it is actually too far to reach in a day, do some prospecting, and get back home.  And the road, the Steese Highway, is mostly gravel.  While it is a good gravel road, the gravel is sharp, and it is not unusual to hear of someone losing one, or even two tires on a trip.  It is pretty heavily traveled, as it is the only road to a number of small towns to the north.  Manley Hot Springs, indirectly, and Central and Circle City direct, where the road ends at the Yukon River. 

  Harrison Creek and Mastodon Creek are in steep country, and Harrison Creek is famous for nice nuggets, as is Mastodon.  We have a friend with a claim on Harrison Creek, and have worked there a bit.  As in most places, there is nowhere to work on either creek, they are entirely claimed and worked very hard by a number of mostly small commercial operations. 

  Further north at Central, you can turn off to the Circle Mining District, which is on the road leading to Circle Hot Springs.  GPAA has some new claims on Deadwood Creek there that we hope to work this summer.  From what Ron says, and from the articles he has written about that area, it is mostly worked with small commercial operations now also.  I gather that the best gold would be further up Deadwood Creek, but he says there should be good areas possible on the claims.  Note:  This area is known for mosquitoes… you heard of them, of course.  The Alaskan mosquito, the state bird? (A local joke)  While I have not been back in to the claims, I have gone to the miner’s picnic in Central, on a damp, rainy summer day when clouds of them hovered around our heads.  You need to have plenty of “bug dope” before venturing out into the bush in Alaska.

  After leaving Central, the ground gradually slopes down toward the Yukon River, which is a very large river!  Where the road meets it at Circle City is one of the narrower places, as it has been confined to a space between two bluffs.  Downriver from here it opens up to form many rivers, and gets incredibly wide and spread out.  There is no road access to the Yukon after it leaves here, I don’t think.  There are native villages between here and the coast, and there are still riverboats that supply them.  Their only other access to the outer world is by plane, or dog sled in winter.  They use snowmachines to access other nearby villages, but not for long trips.  I did not see any evidences of mining in the Circle City area.  They may be there, but they are not evident from the highway, if they are.  The town was much smaller than I expected.  I had only seen photos taken during the original development during their gold rush, and it is smaller now than it was then.

  Another invaluable tool for someone coming to Alaska is “The Milepost.”  This large book covers every highway leading to Alaska from the lower 48… it will take you all the way from the border there, to Alaska, and then covers all major highways in Alaska and some in the Yukon, mile for mile, telling you just what to expect from the highway, and what can be found along the highway.  It is very good.  Of course it does not cover all the prospecting areas, or areas from a prospecting angle.  But it is something I would not want to be without in unknown areas.

  Other mining districts to the north are partially accessible by the “haul” road… this is the road used to access the oil pipeline.  The Brooks Range is an area to the north that is rich in gold.  It is NOT directly accessible by road, however.  The people mining in the Brooks range fly in.  This area is hundreds of miles to the north of Fairbanks, and I do not have any information on it.   It is not a recreational area.  The access is too difficult, and I don’t even know about any other problems involved.  The Koyukuk River has been mentioned by my husband on his website, and in an article he wrote.  He has done a bit of prospecting there, and it is still dredged in some areas. Some of it has been closed recently.  This area is about 200 miles north of Fairbanks by this gravel road, and then you must have river transportation with you (there is only a bridge there, no facilities anywhere), as it is several miles by river to the dredging area he spoke of.  You must also be able to transport with you by river, your prospecting equipment.  The Wiseman mining district is also up this road even further, and Coldfoot.  There are rich mining districts in these areas, but the mining districts are not accessible by road.  Towns are, but I don’t even have mileages at my fingertips right now.  They are a long way.  There are commercial operations up there, some fairly large.

  To the southeast, on the Richardson Highway, is Delta Junction, and there are some large mining operations in this area, but no recreational prospecting that I am aware of. 

Further south we have begun to investigate the Black Rapids area.  This is an area several hours south of us on the Parks Highway, which leads to the coast at Valdez.  Valdez is about eight hours south of us by highway, depending on what work is being done to the road.  To give you an idea, they say there are four seasons here… almost winter, winter, still winter, and road construction.  Typically, they will be working on the road in several places, all the time that construction is possible.  There are not many months of the year that the ground is not frozen, and while it is, the elements are wreaking havoc to it.  So they have to repair it, every year.  It slows travel down during summer months.  This is a gorgeous drive, however, and there is tremendous fishing at Valdez, in a most beautiful setting.  

In a mountainous area, at Black Rapids there are a number of small creeks that tumble down steep mountainsides to flow right under the highway.  We had a little luck panning one, and less dredging another with a small dredge, but after talking to Ron about them we think we can have some better luck at others. There is a military facility in this area that you must deal with.  The land continues to slope steeply from the highway to the river not far below at the lowest point in this valley, and a glacier is seen flowing from the pass on the other side of the valley.  There are a number of creeks flowing into the river from the other side, also, but prospecting is not allowed there.  Full of glacial silt, the river is not suitable for dredging.  The water appears to have the consistency of gritty cocoa, and the color is the grey of concrete in these glacial rivers and streams.  

Although the creeks are small most of the year, we checked them out right after flooding last year, and they moved a whole lot of material at that time!  They were forced to do a lot of reconstruction to the area, and the highway was closed for several days while they cleared away all the debris that ended on top of it.  Since it is quite a distance it will take awhile to thoroughly check it.  We can do it in a day, but it does not leave us a very long day working there.  We may rig up something so we can “overnight it” in our minivan, but may not be able to do that this summer.  We have a lot of company coming this year.

Further south on the Parks highway from Fairbanks, the mining areas are not far from Anchorage.  Anchorage is about seven hours by highway.  There is the Petersburg mining district, and/or the Yentna mining district (I haven’t figured out yet if these are separate or one and the same), which is in the mountains near Wasilla (about an hour this side of Anchorage).  There is some dredging in this area, and Dennis Garrett, who has a commercial operation, is offering prospecting trips, or fees, or claims or something.  You can often ask for him on our forum and he’ll reply.  Or you can go to his website, and I’ve included that url on the Prospecting page of this website. 

Then, to the south of Anchorage on the Sterling Hwy I believe, toward the Kenai Peninsula, as you go around Turnagain Arm there is a mining district to the left called Crow Creek, where a commercial operation offers mining by the day on their claims.  This is a popular place for detectorists and dredgers and panners in the area, and they sometimes can do quite well.  GPAA also has claims in this area, somewhere (on Mills Creek?), that co be good.  Near the end of Turnagain Arm is a turnoff to Hope, to the right.  The Hope Mining company has commercial claims there, and was offering mining packages to people, also.  I do not know anyone who has mined there.  It is rich in gold mining history, I just don’t have any feedback on this company from anyone yet.  If anyone visiting this page does have firsthand knowledge… have experienced it for themselves, could you please email me?  Thanks!

 There are hardrock mines in the steep mountains around Moose Pass, going further south on the Sterling Highway.  Very steep country and stiffly regulated, I understand.  I have a book all about gold mining on the Kenai Peninsula, that was given to me by a friend there, Eric Treider.  I have not read all of it yet, however, so I will hold off on going any further south with my information.

 I do understand, from the dredgers who visit our gold forum, that in some areas to the south of us, they prefer dredging in the winter, because the water is too swift during summer months in some areas.  They have posted a lot of photos of dredging when deep snow is on the ground.  That is dedication!

                    

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